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We woke at 6:15 and prepared for our trip to Podgorica, Ostrag Monastery and the Montenegrin countryside. we hopped in Saki’s van and started on our journey. winding up the mountains from the sea side town of Budva we took the main roads through Montenegro to the capital city of Podgorica, from there passing through small towns and climbing through mountains and valleys we finally arrived at a tiny road barely big enough to fit our van. we turned and headed up – ever higher toward the top of the mountain.

winding through hairpin turns and across treacherous roads we arrived at Ostrag and disembarked. we trudged up to the monastery and explored its beauty and stark orthodox character. the monastery houses the corpse and bones of St. Basil (the Montenegrin one). apart from his body there is also an ornate cavern carved and painted which is burrowed back into the mountain from the monastery.

we explored and then saddled up for the treacherous drive back down to earth. we headed back through Podgorica Montenegro’s capital city with a population of roughly 120 thousand people. the city, full of half constructed, badly painted and miserable looking housing projects evoked a strong affirmation of how poor the country was. we returned through Svet Stefan and the beach side towns surrounding Budva – and town of 20,000 with over 400 known millionaires. outside Petrovac we stopped for a photo opportunity and the bolt connecting the stick shift and the gear box sheared. I saw it hanging under the car, and as Saki tried to phone for help decided we could fix it. climbing under the van on the side of the road, big trucks screaming by, I stretched under and refitted the two pieces, tying them together with plastic bags. we tried it a few times and then headed up the coast toward Tivat, the town used for Casino Royal, and Budva. I went and saw the beach at Tivat and then spent three hours lounging in the cool, clear, and blue/green Adriatic waters. Allowed my body to soak and relax. after the afternoon in the sun I returned to the apartment met up with the rest of the crew and then headed to a fine chicken, potato and salad dinner prepared by Saki’s wife. from there the boys decided to head out to explore the night life. unfortunately as a Tuesday the city was mostly dead but we had a good time regardless.

I woke at 7:10 and wandered down to await the bus to Ulcinej the city from which I would take a taxi across the boarder into Albania and to the city of Schodra and its Rozafa Castle.

Dubrovnik to Budva Montenegro:

I caught the bus from Dubrovnik to the border town of Hercei Novi in Montenegro. The man who had ran the private accomadation I was staying in had recommended to try that instead of taking the Croatian direct bus. I boarded my bus after a bus ride to out of the old city and down to the bus and ferry terminals on the far side of the city. From the bus station I found my bus and boarded, having just enough time before the bus left to strike up a conversation with an Aussie and Brazilian who were also headed to Budva. We rode along the Croatian coast toward Montenegro. After a slow boarder crossing and unfriendly bus attendant I was stoked to get out of the Croatian bus and find a Montenegran bus with a large placard stating: Budva. Happy and ready to be on my way, I grabbed my bags from the storage bin under the bus and hopped on the Montenegran bus.

The bus was ancient, the driver and his attendant in faded hawaiian shirts, the windshield cracked, the airconditioner pulled apart and to top off the experience there were spider’s happily in their webs in the corners of the windows. None the less it was 4 euro cheaper than the direct coach. We rode along, and it took me about 15 minutes to realize the crew hadn’t shut the door. I then looked closer and realized the door had no glas in it and was in fact closed. I chuckled to myself and enjoyed the jumpy ride around the beaches and towns of Montenegro.

We passed through Kotor, Tivat, and then arrived safely in Budva. I met up with the Aussie Gentleman and the Brazilian girl again and we decided to explore together seeking the hostel. We ended up taking a taxi (who ripped us off) – asking for 10 euro instead of the 2 it should have cost. We found the hostel booked to the brim and instead decided to wander up the street seeking another apartment. We found Saki’s Apartments up the street, marked with a Red Jeep Wrangler. Saki was in Podgorica and we spoke to his wife through sign language and arabic numbers. we arranged the room for 30 euro a night (10 each) for a master ensuite with another room containing two twin beds. Dropping our bags, we headed into the city. we walked down to the water and then along the beach to the old city. Famished we took a break at a cafe and got a huge hamburger for 5 euro – made of sausage not beef. from there we headed into the old city in search of an information desk. we wandered the city and explored the walls, impressive but nothing compared to the granduer of Dubrovnik. we slipped back into the city and found the information desk, getting information on day trips and exploring Montenegro. we then headed back to the hotel, rested and met Saki, a very kind fellow who was friendly and eager to share his home with us. He told us his wife would make us dinner for 5 euro each. we took him up on the offer and met down in the restaurant. we had a plate of rice with diced salad and beef. dinner over we were offered a little bit of a home made wine spirit (40-50 proof) we drank and then headed in to get a good nights sleep. The next morning Saki had offered to drive us up to Ostrag Monastery. It was hard to sleep knowing we would have a car and personal tour of Montenegro!

Dubrovnik:

Dubrovnik is a city which is literally from the 8th centruy. With Giant reinforced battlements and reinforced crenallations and fortifications the old city of Dubrovnik is spectacular to say the least. At every turn and every view inside the city there is a feeling of living in a medieval fortress.

The great stone walls surround a city chock full of churches, shops, and most importantly croatian people. Although a touristy destination Dubrovnik still retains its Croatian charm. Wandering the city I discovered a little cafe poised outside the battlements in the rocks called the Cold Drink Cafe and had a Coca cola sitting outside the walls on the sharp rocks poised over the crashing waves. The struggle between the castle and the sea was beautiful in sound, smell and view.

From there I headed up onto the city walls and toured the city from above, looking down inside on the red roofed homes and narrow defensive streets. A gorgeous example of construction and defense mixed into a city. As I wandered down near the cathedral I was nearly run over by a group of six cars blaring their horns and waving Croatian Flags. Confused I looked around and noticed a large procession leaving the cathedral, I’d just become a part of a Croatian wedding. The procession left the chuch and headed down through the city, singing and chanting. The live music and cheerful atmosphere coaxed me to follow the procession down into the city and to explore the joys of Croatian celebrations.

I’d found a small Sobe (apartment) run by a local croatian family and decided to stay there. I’d negotiated the price from 170kuna to 100 kuna per night which was a steal as the hostel was nearly 188 kuna per night. I got my own room, small but safe and access to hot water (not sharing with a hostel haha) and peaceful quiet. I managed a dinner of salami, lemons, water and bread and wandered home. I decided to stay in for the night and slept off my worries about travel and my computer.

Come sunday morning I was up and ready to walk about. I made my way back through the city, wandered about and decided to take advantage of a computer Cafe. Thats where I am right now, Sunday afternoon at 12:30 working on catching up on these blogs and trying to upload foto’s.

Split:

Split is a city with strong reminiscence of R.A. Salvatore’s books. Ancient old city, formed around a port with roman ruins, beautiful bell tower and gorgeous worn marble streets. Split is a city where you can stay for a week, like Dubrovnik its the atmosphere and the sights that really enthrall you. From the park on one edge of the city to the night clubs lining the beach on the other side of the port. It is an experience that is unforgettable.

I arrived in Split with my parents, saddened as this would be our last night together. We discovered a small Croatian family who was renting out their apartment a few minutes from the old city. Leaving our packs locked in our rooms we headed out to explore the old town of split and find a hostel for me to move into come Thursday. That evening we had a blessed dinner at a small Konoba the food was excellent and the company superb. Dad ordered his first (FIRST!!!) bottle of red wine and we had a splurge of a dinner together. Mum and Pa retired early and I left to join a group of Brits and Aussies who were headed out.

I’d met them earlier on Wednesday and we’d decided to explore the nightlife of split that night. We wandered through the streets and passed a small bar named Pulse and then headed up to another known as Ghetto. Ghetto was an artsy quiet place full of Croatians, Aussies, and backpackers. We fit right in and ordered a round. Sitting in Ghetto we started talking to the Croatian girls beside us and the waitress Mia. From raunchy jokes, to meeting a young man from Scottsdale who was studying in Moscow the evening was a treat and absolute pleasure. I meandered home around 2am and fell into bed.

Thursday:

We woke Thursday early around 7 am and got ready for the day. I took a quick shower and we walked the city again. Mom, Dad, and I. Together we explored above the city and toward the newer town. From there we headed back to the apartment gathered our bags and I went to check into the hostel while they went and checked their bags for the ferry that night to Ancona. I arrived at Split Hostel (highest recommendations on the hostel! It was a treat) and checked in. 110 kuna lighter and with my bags locked away, my bed made, and my mind prepared to work I plugged in my computer and discovered that it wasn’t working properly. What I found out three days later and 200 kuna poorer was that the ac in jack connected to my motherboard had fried (apparently a common problem with dell’s of that model) and that I’d have to have it fixed over the weekend (impossible as I was planning on leaving Saturday for Dubrovnik). Aggravated at my computer problems I joined my mum and dad on the boardwalk (rivera) down to the right of the port. We watched the ocean and talked about writing and work. We knew we’d be parting and were a little down.

From the Rivera we made our way back to the little Konoba which had treated us so well the night before and had a wonderful dinner of mixed grilled meats and Spaghetti Carbonara. Dinner completed we left and took a walk down toward the ferry. We found a bench alongside the port and shared Cigar. At 7:30 we headed to the ferry and I saw them off as they entered customs and then again as they walked into the gaping cavern of the ferry. I knew they’d have a blast in Italy and a safe trip home, and waving one last time I headed back to the Hostel to prepare for a night out on the town.

Thursday evening around 9:30 I joined some of the blokes from the hostel and got ready to head out. We first went to an Irish pub and from there I headed on to a club on the beach called Tropic. Every Thursday night Tropic had a Latin night and I was in luck because as I wandered along the beach I heard the salsa music and wandered in. The Salsa community was ecstatic to find a young man who knew a little bit of salsa and immediately accepted me into the fold. I spent the evening dancing and had a table of Croatians buy me my drinks. It was a great compliment and an amazing experience. I wandered home at 2 am and prepared for Friday!

I spent most of friday trying to fix my computer and more interesting still wandering the newer city looking for a computer repair shop. I found one and as I said above wasted hours and 200 kuna for a fix that didn’t fix the problem. Only to be told I’d need to replace a chip on my Mother board that could only be done on Monday – apparently the shop that sells the chips was closed. That disappointment and my morning wasted I headed back to the city and wandered through the streets and parks. I headed to the beach for a bit and hung out with four east coast American who I’d run into at the Hostel.

That evening we got together on the courtyard and decided on our plans, two Canadian girls, some Aussies and we Americans all gathered and decided to first hit up the Irish pub for a Guinn. Then I chatted up a table of Croatian girls and spent a good portion of the evening talking with them. From the Irish pub we headed out to the beach for Club Ecuador. We danced and wandered home early in the morning.

I checked out and caught my bus after one last walk through the northern park with the giant statue and along the Riviera and then wandered to the bus station to catch the four hour ride to Dubrovnik.

Plitviće Jazeera:

Plitvice national park is an example of the unbelivable beauty found in Croatia. Croatia has defied my every expectation. I’ve discovered parks, beautiful coasts, friendly people full of smiles and friendly advice, and a culture dedicated to their traditions and life.

Plitvice itself is a national park built around a series of lakes which overflow from each other and create a dazzeling series of waterfalls as the waters stumbles from one lake to the next. The only way I know how to describe the waterfals is by referencing stone. They are like white diamond froth spilling over and punching through the limestone and softer earth, spouting down into green tipped blue sapphires sparkling and scintilating the mind and the senses. The clarity and depth of the water – perfect blues and greens combined with the explosion of water and froth from the lakes above is a beauty which defies explanation. To truly appriciate it you need to be there in person, to see the water, feel the mist, and smell the forest and wildlife which has grown up around these lakes.

We wandered around the boardwalks from Pt. 4 and the top lake down toward the biggest lake and biggest waterfall at pt 1. from Pt. 4 to Pt. 2 are sets of smallers waterfalls, hundreds in total which reach across the border between the lakes. As you wander around the natural boardwalk (made of wood from the surrounding forests) you find yourself at points walking on the shores, or across the shallows and even climbing your way inches above a tumbling waterfall.

I can’t express how much beauty was contained in that park. But as soon as I can recover my video’s and foto’s from the harddrive of my crashed computer I can share those with you!

More about Split and Dubrovnik soon!

Opatjia:
Opatjia was a wonderful city, built on the ocean with a sprawling open stone beach and cement platforms reaching out into the bay. We walked through the city and then proceeded down to the waterside. we found a bench beside the water and to the right of part of the port and sat down for some drinks and food. feeling refreshed we took a boot shot in honor of Virtual Wayfarer and then headed on toward into a converted private residence which had now become a park. As we sat in the park overlooking the sea, a tour boat circled by, its bullhorn blaring and the tourists trapped aboard unable to enjoy the sight or sounds of the water, only the view and the noise of a roaring engine fighting a bullhorn for dominance. The boat passed and we continued on through the city down to the water. We walked along the beaches and then I found comfy spot on the dock and slipped my feet into the cool, refreshing Adriatic water. I took a nap on the dock and then we decided to head back into Rijeka.

Rijeka – Pt. 2 Baska.

We woke and walked Rijeka early Sunday morning, the square was quieter and although I’d been frustrated with a serious lack of working internet I was excited to be out and traveling with the parents. We’d decided the night before to explore Baska and make our way down to the southern tip of the Island of KrK. We caught our bus around mid morning and took the bus down the island shores. The bus ride’s here have been exceptional, beautiful scenery – long slow winding roads with stops in little wayside villages that you’d never have a chance to see without a car and the desire to wind back into the valleys and mountains.

The green valleys with slick gray rock erupting in piles strewn throughout the low olive groves and farming areas lends northern Croatia a strong Greek feeling. Passing through beautiful red tile roofed town after town we finally crossed a valley and delved down into the opening gully toward the ocean. Baska (Bashka) is a picturesque ancient village nestled on the edge of a natural cove in the island. With narrow winding streets and colorfully painted homes it is the epitome of Adriatic beauty.

The beaches are a mixture of sand and stone, we wandered enjoying the Croatian scenery and people and then grabbed lunch at a small tourist restaurant on a raised street toward the center of the port. Having enjoyed the sun and culture, we headed back to Rijeka and wandered about the city.

Mum and I headed out for a café to celebrate Mothers day, and we stumbled upon a salsa bar. I spent the night dancing with Croatian women and listening to a myriad of languages being tossed back and forth and cultures mixed and interacted.

A beautiful night complete I wandered back to the hotel and prepared for relaxed Monday exploring the suburbs of Rijeka. We headed out to Opatjia and explored the city on Monday. But more on that Later.

We caught our bus to Rijeka from Trieste early the next morning. We were headed on into unknown territory, using the advice of the VirtualWayfarer as our guide to Croatia we thought we’d try a few places on our own and then make our way down into Zadar, Split, and Dubrovnik. We crossed into Slovenia and then down intro Croatia, visiting the Croatian countryside we had the pleasure of stopping in every little town along the route, taking time to drive through the city and explore by way of our bus driver. A perk of taking a longer bus route. Surprised by the green and open beauty of Croatia and reminded of Greece in its nuances we pulled into Rijeka and hiked to the Information center.

The information center helped us find a great little private apartment on the edge of the port. Our host was a newer mother dealing with a hyper energetic young boy. Adorable and frayed she helped us in and offered us café and Grappa. We settled in for three nights and began to explore Croatian culture. Rijeka has some of the most attractive people I’ve ever seen. An industrial center and third largest city in Croatia Rijeka isn’t a tourist destination it’s a reserved city focused on its industry. Even so its night life and the activity in the central square could only be described as chaotic. People wandering from every which way, intersecting and interacting… the city was a hub of activity. We wandered through the main square and meandered around seeking internet (which we didn’t find).

After our wandering we continued to explore the city and get a feel for our options. We decided that the next day we would head out into the island of Krk and then go from there south to Baska (Bashka) a small city on the Adriatic at the very southern tip of the Island of Krk. Our decision made we wandered to a small fishing restaurant down the street right on the port. They brought forth a plate containing the day’s catch and asked us to make our plates from the selection.

The fish (caught that day) was some of the best food I’ve ever had. It was deep fried Adriatic squid, salmon, risotto with scampi and boiled shrimp. The food was amazing, with polenta fried in clarified butter and garlic with onion. The flavors came together in a cacophony of taste and experience flooding our palates. After the meal we were exhausted and stumbled out to take a passigata a small walk through town. The central square was still hopping and we headed back to our apartment to spent the night in bliss.

Next up – Bashka and Rijeka Pt. 2