Monday 18-6-07
Greetings from Edinburgh. Happy fathers day to Dad. It’s a bit late but we were in the air traveling and then had no computer access yesterday. I know it’s been a few days since I last sent word. It’s been terribly busy. In general I was not impressed with Dublin. It felt like a regular rural city. Beautiful to be sure but the pace was too slow and the shift from fast, hard hitting London to slower very casual Dublin was a shock to my system. I’ll post pictures as soon as I can figure out how to get them up in a decent manner. It could be a nightmare. We’ll see.

So to start from the message sent last Tuesday. We went to Kilmainham Gaol. Very interesting the leaders of the 1916 Easter rebellion’s cells were pretty neat. The space itself is cold, dank, and cruel. What a horrid place. The experience of being immersed in that atmosphere lends a whole new meaning to the words, declarations and speeches of the men who suffered there and were executed in that buildings courtyard. The limestone walls etched with names, lovers, dates, and sorrow echo a single overpowering emotion – Suffering. The kitchens and the newer half of the Gaol. is better then the older half. Built in a Victorian style one can observe all the cells from standing at any point in the Gaol courtyard. There is also a huge window above the gallery which lets in light and “God”. Once down and inside the Gaol there are the kitchens and a few feet down the hall there are the solitary punishment cells. Dark, Freezing, Dank rooms in the basement of the Gaol. The inhabitants of which would be tortured with the smell of the cooking food forced to eat only bread and water. We learned of the political moves which lead to the execution of most of the rebellions leaders and of the reasoning behind the construction of the Gaol. A very interesting trip.

Wednesday – we boarded our buses and headed out to the famine museum in Strokestown. The home of the landowning family which was loyal to the British was very interesting. Built in the 1700’s it is preserved and was lived in until the 1980’s. The house is in original condition and the guides allowed us to touch and experience the home as if we were living there. This was amazing it really allowed me to grasp a sense of the history and time which had soaked into the house. Being able to touch and feel the home. To put my hands on history filled me with wonder and discovery. It added a whole new sense of the entire experience. The second half of the estate is a famine museum chronicling the potato famines and the role the household had in the eviction and persecution of the catholic tenants who worked on the estate when the crops failed. The museum gave insight into a subject which I had studied in the past. The Irish emigration from Ireland affected United States culture on a massive scale. But it also deeply affected Irish culture and society because of the changes which happened in population. We finished in the museum and wandered through the estates gardens. I have some beautiful pictures from that wandering. The garden was stunning; colours and scents filled the air and permeated the entirety of it. There were also passages to further corridors which reminded me of the secret garden. Beautiful.

We got home, I bathed and then I went to the Salsa Club again. I had a wonderful time. Dancing, moving and just relaxing, sinking into the relief and reward that dancing brings – a place to centre myself and just move in the moment completely engulfed. A wonderful break that I was really needing. Emotionally I hit my lowest point in Dublin. In the club I met four women who were regulars and danced there regularly. They befriended me and we danced through the night. It was simply wonderful. I wandered home around 2:30.

Thursday – Class – then into town to wander for a few hours then grabbed a day bus to Newgrange. The Oldest building on earth. The huge burial mound is stunning. And to consider when and how it was built with the huge amounts of earth piled high around the stone retaining walls and the embedded quartz which makes the entrance to the tomb glow in the sunlight the golden glow reverberating through the stone. We then ventured inside and saw the chamber which is lit for only five days during the winter solstice. For such a magnificent and mammoth monument the inner chamber is little bigger than a jeep. The roof is arched with hug slabs of stone layered upon each other with only packing rocks between. The scrollwork and the artistry from over five thousand years ago still etched into the secret places. It was stunning – again to touch something so old. To have it at hands length from you and to know that you’re surrounded by it is stunning. The tour guide was gorgeous as well – it never hurts. – Home again – made a decent dinner and then went out on a pub crawl with a few of the gents. We wandered down from the oldest pub in Dublin to Temple bar and the clubs/pubs there. We danced there for hours and caught a taxi home – it was a great time as well and offered another chance for me to dance and relax.

Friday – Relaxed in the morning and then went out into town. Went shopping to get the ingredients for my last few meals in Dublin – Curry rice – Pasta, peppers, cheese and pasta sauce with minced beef. Pretty darn great. Friday night – went out clubbing again – went to the premier club in Dublin – it was a disappointment. No stories there just pretty lame and all music I’d heard before. Luckily we came early and there was no cover.

Saturday – saw the World Championships for street performers and saw one of the 46 living and practicing sword swallower in the world, do a show – his name is the Space Cowboy. These performances were wonderful. There was a beautiful young woman from Zimbabwe who did a very entertaining performance where she pretended to be a stalker type – kill you if you leave me – instantly in love – girl to some random guy in the audience – she played it off very well and the gag was hilarious yet creepy at the same time. Then there were acrobats, and jugglers, and two Belgian gents who did a stunning show. One was a Belgian toy maker and the other was made up as a life size – full tux wearing automated toy which kept malfunctioning and causing the Belgian Toymaker frustration. It was a spectacular show.

Sunday – Came home – Packed all my belongings – made a huge dinner to finish off the very last of all our food – fell asleep around 1:45 – woke up cleaned the kitchen and then left on the bus for the airport.

So, upon arriving here on Wednesday night we set out to explore. Within an hour of landing we were at our accommodations a hotel type dorm (privately owned but on school grounds) at UCD. We tossed our bags in our rooms and within an hour were out exploring Dublin. We hit up the Temple bar area and city center. I have no idea how people find there ways around here I just play hit or miss. There aren’t posted bus maps or routes at the stops. Just time tables for when bus lines stop at the stops. I learned the hard way twice about night buses here. There is no 24 hour transportation. Taxis are the only option during the week after 2:30am (bars close at 3:00) and the night bus stops at 2:30. Sundays the night bus stops at 12am and accordingly the clubs close at 1:30… Wonderful eh? So I had to pay 10€ twice. That sucked. But that’s later in the week. Thursday we got our seven day bus passes and again I headed into Temple bar area. Picked up a bottle of wine. Ordered an Oyster for Alex (great thick stout – a loft like Guinness but smoother and with less bitter at the back of the tongue). Wandered about exploring that area and marked three night clubs for Friday/Saturday. Explored Trinity church and saw the book of kells. Went shopping picked up a bit of food. Friday similar day. Except we ate at the Hard rock – one of the cute girls traditions so there were a bunch of us who went. Bit expensive but an experience. Then we came home for a bit of cheaper fun at the rooms.

The book of Kells was gloriously beautiful. Although small its intricacies and the illuminated text was simply stunning.

Friday night worked out quite well, we played a few drinking games and just mulled around, talking having fun and enjoying the evening. The sun sets at around 10 but it won’t get dark until 11:30pm- 12:00am. From the time the sun sets the horizon turns a purpled red. Gorgeous spirals of colour rise up from the horizon into the clouds and the colours mix with all the greenery. It’s truly stunning. The sun rises around 5. 4:57 Sunrise and 21:53 sunset.
It is pretty wonderful here. But again it’s so laid back that I haven’t accomplished that much. Other than exploring st. Stephens park (large park with huge lawns and arranged flowers tucked behind a large water feature (lake with ducks and other birds with a central island). Gave three of the girls a good back massage at least an hour to an hour and a half each so I’ve got new dedicated friends there…hehehe. Friday done went to sleep.

Saturday – woke up at a decent time 11:00 despite it being light already for five hours. Wandered again into town and explored. Bought MOOOORRRREEEE groceries. Spring onions etc. that night we went down into the city center and ventured into a Dark Techno/trance club here in Dublin. That was a TRIP. I got asked for ecstasy three times and offered some pills. I didn’t take any but it was a new experience to be in an environment that was rampant with blatant drug use. The music was amazing none the less. We left at 3:00 and began to try and find the buses. We walked 2/3 of the way home which is about five miles – give or take. Then we caught a taxi and got a ride home.

Sunday was again pretty relaxed. Cooked myself breakfast, Fresh apples spring onions and hot pasta with Italian seasoning mixed with thinly sliced cheddar – Very good taste! took a nap. Went back to the St. Stephens Park and watched traditional Irish folk music and some river dancing at the gazebo there. That was pretty nice it went on from 3:00-5:15. Then wandered to an ethnic area and picked up some food – Chinese food pretty cheap for the portions and darn good.

Sunday night a girl and I ventured out and found a salsa club. Stayed there until 12:45 and missed the night buses. Salsa club was amazing. A huge long hall with wooden floors with a circular area at the base (end of the bar) which made it look very similar to an old thermometer. Danced my arse off and just had a blast.

Monday – wandered into town hoping to tour some museums and libraries but they are closed on Mondays. Instead bought a bottle of wine and went to the park again. Drank under the green canopy above and enjoyed the serene sounds of the birds – ducks fishing and the gentle sound of air rushing through the leaves. After that met up with Cary and wandered to the Guinness brewery – second time there but took the tour this time. First time I just bought souvenirs – part of what was so expensive. Took the tour and saw Dublin for the highest point in the city – the Sky lounge at the top of Guinness. Took some round about pictures. Brought back memories of Paris and the Eiffel tower although it was different. After the brewery wandered back home again – bought more groceries and came home. We cooked a great dinner – pan fried chicken breasts with pasta, garlic spring onions melted cheddar cheese and chopped cold apple. It tasted wonderful. We cut up a baguette as well and ate it with olive oil and a little bit of salt. Truly a great time.

Tuesday today – class then nap now writing this. Off to a field trip to kilmainhan gaol.

The weather has been startling- no rain or cold just bright hot sun since we landed on Wednesday – this morning a breeze came up so we are hoping for a little rain. But it has been BEAUTIFUL so far.